American Cooking: The Eastern Heartland: Recipes

Introductory Notes - Section 1 of 1 (1 )

Atlantic Clams

Two types of Atlantjc clams are important foods: the soft-shell, or long-necked, clam (Mya arenaria) and the hard-shell, called littleneck on the Pacific Coast, clam (Venus mercenaria). Both are roughly oval in shape, the hard shell clam nearly round. The soft clam has a thin, brittle shell and a distinctive long siphon, or neck; the hard clam has a thick, solid shell and a short neck. Hard clams are frequently served raw on the half shell; soft clams are always cooked before they are eaten.

Though any soft clam may be steamed successfully, Easterners consider the small ones, under 2 inches in length, best and refer to these as steamer clams.

The hard clam is usually referred to by its old Indian name, quahog (pronounced "co-hog"). Confusingly, some clammers differentiate between hard clams on the basis of their size, using the term quahog only for a big clam that may be 4 to 5 inches long. They call the medium-sized, 2 1/2- to 3-inch clam a cherrystone, and the small 1 1/2- to 2-inch clam is known as a littleneck.

Soft-shell clams are most plentiful north of Cape Cod but can be dug as far south as Cape Hatteras. The same variety was accidentally introduced to the Pacific Coast about 1880 by being mixed with shipments of young Eastern oysters, and the soft clams now thrive along the shoreline from San Francisco to British Columbia.

Quahogs are found all along the Atlantic Coast from Canada south, and in the Gulf of Mexico. Related members of the Venus genus, locally known as butter clams and littleneck clams, are found on Pacific beaches from California to Alaska.

The surf clam (Spisula solidissima), which occurs from Labrador to South Carolina, is a large heavy species with tougher meat than the quahog; it goes by such names as sea clam, hen clam and chowder clam. Though not widely popular, it is sometimes substituted for the quahog in chowders and at clambakes.

Clams, mussels and oysters are sold to markets and restaurants by licensed fishermen and come from numbered beds, and the chance of encountering shellfish from polluted waters is slight. Amateurs should check with local authorities to make sure that the waters where they go for shellfish are unpolluted. (By law, polluted areas closed to fishing must be posted.) Clams that are not tightly closed when dug must not be eaten.

How to Prepare and Seal Canning Jars

To ensure consistent results in home canning, use standard canning jars or jelly glasses with matching lids. Examine earh jar or glass carefully and discard those with covers that do not fit securely and those with cracked or chipped edges. An airtight seal is essential to prevent spoilage.

Wash the jars, glasses, lids and rings in hot, soapy water, and rinse them in scalding water. Place them in a large deep pot and pour in enough hot water to cover them completely. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn off the heat while you finish cooking the food that you plan to can. The jars or glasses must be hot when they are filled.

To prepare to seal the glasses, grate a 4-ounce bar of paraffin into the top of a double boiler (preferably one with a pouring spout), and melt the paraffin over hot water.

When the food is ready for canning, lift the jars or glasses from the pot with tongs and stand them upright on a level surface. Leave the lids and rings in the pot until you are ready to use them. Fill and seal the jars one at a time, filling each jar to within 1/8 inch of the top or each glass to within 1/2 inch of the top. Each jar should be sealed quickly and tightly with its ring and lid. (If there is not enough food to fill the last jar or glass completely, do not attempt to seal it. Refrigerate and use the food within the next week.)

Jelly glasses also should be sealed at once. Pour a single thin layer of hot paraffin over the surface, making sure it covers the jelly completely and touches all sides of the glass. If air bubbles appear on the paraffin, prick them immediately with the tip of a knife. Let the glasses rest until the paraffin cools and hardens, then cover with metal lids.

If a recipe calls for finishing the preserving Process with a water bath, place the filled and sealed jars side by side on a rack in a canner or other deep large pot. Pour in enough hot (not boiling) water to immerse the jars by at least 1 inch, securely cover the pot with its lid, and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Boil for the time recommended. Then, with tongs, remove the jars from the pot and let them cool for about 12 hours. Test the seal of ring-top lids by pressing the center of the top of each lid with your forefinger. If the flat inner lid remains in place, unscrew the outer ring, leaving the seal intact. If the inner lid moves, the jar is not properly sealed; refrigerate and serve the food within a week.

For additional information on canning, see "How to Make Jellies, Jams and Preserves at Home," USDA Home and Garden Bulletin No.56, and "Making Pickles and Relishes at Home," USDA Home and Garden Bulletin No. 92. These bulletins cost 15 cents each and can be ordered from Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C. 20402.